Fermentation produces filtrate rich in inositol, amino acids, phytic acid, and ferulic acid. Inositol restores
elasticity and luminosity. Phytic acid is a gentle chelating brightener. Ferulic acid stabilises Vitamin C.
Sphingolipid molecules forming the intercellular lipid matrix. Replenishment reduces TEWL by up to 45% and
prevents irritants from penetrating. Depleted by over-cleansing, retinoid use, dry climate, and ageing.
Oil-soluble beta hydroxy acid that penetrates the sebaceous follicle, dissolving desmosomes within the pore.
Comedolytic, antimicrobial against C. acnes, anti-inflammatory. Not for dry or very sensitive skin.
One enzymatic step from retinoic acid. Approximately 11× more efficacious than retinol with substantially lower
irritation. Stimulates fibroblast collagen type I and III production. Trending as 'the retinol upgrade'.
Coenzyme central to mitochondrial energy metabolism and DNA repair. Declines ~50% between age 20 and 60.
Topical NAD+ precursors activate sirtuin proteins (SIRT1, SIRT3) — 'longevity proteins' — reducing oxidative stress
Competitively inhibits tyrosinase (reduces pigmentation) and exhibits antimicrobial activity against Cutibacterium
acnes. Downregulates NF-κB, making it anti-inflammatory for rosacea and PIE. Pregnancy-safe.
Purified DNA fragments (3,000–50,000 base pairs) from salmon. Activates A2A adenosine receptors on
fibroblasts, triggering collagen, elastin, and fibronectin production. Inhibits TNF-α inflammatory signalling. Results in 4–6
weeks
Glycosaminoglycan humectant with ~1,000× water-binding capacity. High-MW HA forms a surface moisture film.
Low-MW HA penetrates to hydrate dermal layers. Critical for UAE dry-climate skin.
Inhibits melanosome transfer between melanocytes and keratinocytes (reducing dark spots), suppresses sebum via 5α-reductase inhibition, and upregulates ceramide synthesis to strengthen the barrier.
Most widely studied vitamin A derivative. Converts to retinaldehyde then retinoic acid. Proven to reduce fine
lines, improve skin texture, fade hyperpigmentation, and normalize follicular keratinisation. Introduce gradually.
NormalCombination
⚠️ Start low and slow. Avoid during pregnancy. Use SPF daily.
Potent antioxidant and cofactor in collagen synthesis. Neutralises reactive oxygen species from UV and
pollution. Inhibits tyrosinase. Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP) is more stable and gentler for sensitive skin.
Plant-derived (Psoralea corylifolia) functional analogue of retinol. Activates RAR-α and RAR-β receptors and
upregulates type I and III procollagen similarly to retinol. No photosensitivity or irritation. Safe in pregnancy