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Ingredients Glossary

F

S

Snail Secretion Filtrate (Mucin)

Complex mixture of glycoproteins, hyaluronic acid, glycolic acid, zinc, and allantoin. Allantoin accelerates tissue repair and stimulates keratinocyte proliferation. Glycoprotein matrix provides hydration and supports post-irritation repair.

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C

Ceramides

Sphingolipid molecules forming the intercellular lipid matrix. Replenishment reduces TEWL by up to 45% and prevents irritants from penetrating. Depleted by over-cleansing, retinoid use, dry climate, and ageing.

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K

Kojic Acid

Derived from Aspergillus oryzae fermentation. Chelates copper ions required for tyrosinase activity, preventing melanin synthesis. Synergistic with turmeric (curcumin). Trending in GCC for medium-deep skin tones.

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S

Salicylic Acid (BHA)

Oil-soluble beta hydroxy acid that penetrates the sebaceous follicle, dissolving desmosomes within the pore. Comedolytic, antimicrobial against C. acnes, anti-inflammatory. Not for dry or very sensitive skin.

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R

Retinal (Retinaldehyde)

One enzymatic step from retinoic acid. Approximately 11× more efficacious than retinol with substantially lower irritation. Stimulates fibroblast collagen type I and III production. Trending as 'the retinol upgrade'.

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N

NAD+ / NMN

Coenzyme central to mitochondrial energy metabolism and DNA repair. Declines ~50% between age 20 and 60. Topical NAD+ precursors activate sirtuin proteins (SIRT1, SIRT3) — 'longevity proteins' — reducing oxidative stress

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A

Azelaic Acid

Competitively inhibits tyrosinase (reduces pigmentation) and exhibits antimicrobial activity against Cutibacterium acnes. Downregulates NF-κB, making it anti-inflammatory for rosacea and PIE. Pregnancy-safe.

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P

PDRN (Poly deoxy ribo nucleotide)

Purified DNA fragments (3,000–50,000 base pairs) from salmon. Activates A2A adenosine receptors on fibroblasts, triggering collagen, elastin, and fibronectin production. Inhibits TNF-α inflammatory signalling. Results in 4–6 weeks

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H

Hyaluronic Acid

Sodium Hyaluronate
0.1–2%

Glycosaminoglycan humectant with ~1,000× water-binding capacity. High-MW HA forms a surface moisture film. Low-MW HA penetrates to hydrate dermal layers. Critical for UAE dry-climate skin.

All Type of SkindryDehydrated
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C

Centella Asiatica

Cica, Gotu Kola
0.1–5%

Triterpenoids (asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic acid) activate TGF-β signalling to stimulate fibroblast collagen synthesis while suppressing NF-κB inflammatory pathways. Accelerates wound healing, reduces TEWL.

SensitiveAcne-prone
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N

Niacinamide

Vitamin B3
2–10%

Inhibits melanosome transfer between melanocytes and keratinocytes (reducing dark spots), suppresses sebum via 5α-reductase inhibition, and upregulates ceramide synthesis to strengthen the barrier.

All skin typesOilyCombination
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R

Retinol

Vitamin A
0.025–1%

Most widely studied vitamin A derivative. Converts to retinaldehyde then retinoic acid. Proven to reduce fine lines, improve skin texture, fade hyperpigmentation, and normalize follicular keratinisation. Introduce gradually.

NormalCombination

Start low and slow. Avoid during pregnancy. Use SPF daily.

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V

Vitamin C

L-Ascorbic Acid
10–20%

Potent antioxidant and cofactor in collagen synthesis. Neutralises reactive oxygen species from UV and pollution. Inhibits tyrosinase. Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP) is more stable and gentler for sensitive skin.

DullUneven toneAgeing
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B

Bakuchiol

5–20%

Plant-derived (Psoralea corylifolia) functional analogue of retinol. Activates RAR-α and RAR-β receptors and upregulates type I and III procollagen similarly to retinol. No photosensitivity or irritation. Safe in pregnancy

Acne-proneRosaceaSensitive
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